Schiaparelli has struck again. On January 27, 2025, the House presented its Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2025 collection, “Icare”, in the majestic setting of the Petit Palais in Paris. At the helm, Daniel Roseberry continues to shake up codes with a vibrant tribute to ambition, audacity… and the art of dreaming.
A myth reinvented
“Icarus”, like the famous Greek myth, tells a story of flamboyant ascent, risk-taking and the exploration of limits. At Schiaparelli, this translates into sculptural pieces, theatrical silhouettes and creativity without a net. Roseberry revisits house symbols – the keyhole, the dove, anatomical motifs – and propels them into the future with ultra-luxurious materials and avant-garde techniques.
Sculptural couture and exceptional materials
The collection makes its presence felt right from the start: baby doll dresses with exaggerated hips, corsets adorned with resin rosettes, architectural jackets and metamorphosed fabrics. Leather satin, quilted embroidery, smoky quartz, airy tulle, Chantilly lace: each look cultivates the exceptional. Special mention for the glycerine-treated feathers, worked like the plumage of a bird of paradise, a subtle nod to the story of Icarus.
Refined palette, radical look
Shades oscillate between saffron, beige and aqua green, for a look that’s both soft and striking. Boldness is expressed even in the choice of cuts, with XXL volumes, marked waistlines and a play on transparency.
An eventful show
On the catwalk, Kendall Jenner opened the show in a sculptural beige dress, the perfect embodiment of the vision of a free, magnetic and ultra-contemporary Schiaparelli woman. The enthusiastic public applauds the show: Schiaparelli haute couture is more than ever an artistic manifesto.
Between heritage and future
Daniel Roseberry succeeds in reconciling the surrealist heritage of the house founded by Elsa Schiaparelli with a resolutely modern vision of clothing. “Icare” dares all, and signs one of the most striking shows of the 2025 couture season.
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